Golden Horn, Tower Mountain, & Mount Hardy
Cutthroat Pass Trailhead ⚲ Okanogan National Forest, Hwy 20, Washington
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Two Bulger Peaks: Tower Mountain (8,444’) & Golden Horn (8,366’) and one Top 200 Peak: Mount Hardy 8,080’ situated along the Pacific Crest Trail just east of North Cascades National Park.
I first encountered Tower Mountain, Golden Horn, and Mount Hardy while thru-hiking the Pacific Crest Trail in 2018. At that point, I was just a budding peak bagger, new to Washington State, and completely unaware of the Bulger List. Regardless, these peaks still captured my attention as they stood like giant sentinels over this part of the long trail. I took special note of each peak, remembering its name as we hiked through the final miles of our 5-month trek to Canada. The yellow larches were out back then, and so I knew that Fall would be the right time to coordinate my return visit.
I met up with my friend, Kayla Reynolds, at the Cutthroat Pass/Rainy Pass Trailhead Saturday morning just as the sun was starting to illuminate the early morning darkness. This area is one of the most popular places to visit during Larch season so it is important to be diligent about parking. Situated just east of the Cascade Crest along Highway 20, the Rainy Pass Trailhead is also the starting point for the Maple Pass Loop which in my opinion, competes with the Enchantments as the most visited trail in all of Washington during October. Aware of this, I arrived around 8 pm Friday and even then, I had to deal with a full parking lot (there are two!). I ended up parking alongside the highway which I am not sure is encouraged but worked. If you are unable to find parking you can also start this hike from the Cutthroat Lake Trailhead about 10-15 minutes further east. You will have to travel over Washington Pass to get there and the lot is much smaller, but is usually less popular and more secluded. Both starting points get you to Cutthroat Pass, though starting on the Pacific Crest Trail saves you about 500’ of gain and about a half mile of hiking.
The hike to Cutthroat Pass is one of the best stretches of the Pacific Crest Trail in Washington. The many switchbacks make the elevation gain feel minimal and the reward at the top is spectacular. Paired with the beautiful golden larches, this alone is a worthy destination. We stopped for a moment to take in the views of Silver Star Mountain and Big Snagtooth before continuing down the trail. This was my first time retracing these steps since my thru-hike back in 2018 and the nostalgia was in full force.
At around 7 miles we arrived at Granite Pass and got our first views of Tower Mountain and Golden Horn and an additional 3 miles later we were at the junction for the Snowy Lakes Trail. We followed the meandering trail up the switchbacks through the trees before arriving at Lower Snowy Lake.
There are two lakes to choose from, Lower and Upper, both offer great camping opportunities and lovely scenery. Lower Snowy Lake is closer to Tower Mountain and thus demands most of the view; if Tower Mountain is your only destination I would suggest camping here. If you are looking for the best option of the two then I can say with confidence Upper Snowy Lake is the right choice. It is situated higher and so necessitates a bit more hiking to reach but the views of Mount Hardy and the surrounding area far surpass what you can see from the lower lake. Upper Snowy Lake is also closer to Golden Horn. Because Golden Horn was the most technical climb of our weekend agenda, we knew we wanted to tackle it first, so the proximity also deemed it the best choice for us.
Once camp was established we ate lunch and started making our way up towards Golden Horn. From Upper Snowy Lake the route to the upper reaches of the mountain is fairly direct and easy, never harder than class II.
Once we arrived at the shoulder, below the summit block, we encountered a little class III terrain before tucking into a small notch and wrapping around the backside. It is here that the real excitement starts (I led the way and so unfortunately have no photo evidence of the required moves). From the backside, you must step across a gaping void to a horizontal crack in the summit proper. This part is a no-fall zone as the ground now lies a good 25 yards below. When you get your feet situated in the crack you can use poor friction hands to balance yourself as you make a rising traverse upwards. The crack defines your movement until you get yourself high enough to get your hands on top of the summit where you must make one final mantle move to pull yourself up. The moves are not challenging but rather a bit awkward, we did not feel the need to place any gear on our ascent and I am not sure you’d want to as the rock doesn’t facilitate easy placement. If you have members in your party who do not care for the exposure it might be best to let the strongest climber ascend first and then offer a belay from the top; note: the ascent is not vertical but traverses up and to the right so any fall would lead to a swing and poor position for recovery.
The summit of Golden Horn is awesome! Three broken pillars make up a flat ridge no more than 15 square feet in total. We high-fived and then found the Nalgene bottle holding the summit register, signed our names, and took in the view before finding the rappel station tucked in the notch between the summit pillars. The webbing was strong and sufficient but its placement does require you to commit to the rappel before testing its strength as it sits down low in the rock. The descent down the flat 40 or so feet (we utilized my 30m glacier rope which was all we needed) of rock wall was easy and fun but landed us on the west side of the summit - I’m sure you could make a descent from this point back to the shoulder but we chose to climb back up to the notch where we began the summit climb to retrace our steps the way we came.
We made our way back to camp with no issue, enjoying the high vantage point over the lakes the whole way.
Back at camp, we cooked dinner and went to bed early knowing we had another big day ahead of us. The weather was calm and mild allowing us to leave the tent open the whole night - per usual, the stars in this part of the state were spectacular.
On Sunday, we were up before the sun and quickly made our way down to Lower Snowy Lake where we found the climbers path to Tower Mountain.
After a short but strenuous traverse across the talus field below Tower Mountain, we found the ramp which brought us up to the main gully we would be scrambling to the summit. This is where the famous Tower Mountain cave is located which can be seen from a good distance prior to reaching it. We explored the cave briefly but saved the trek to its terminus for our return when we knew we’d enjoy a longer break. We put on our helmets and began the scramble straight up the mountain.
I had read online that this climb can be a pain due to the kitty litter rock coating the path, neither Kayla nor I came away with this impression and instead found it to be quite enjoyable and clean the entire way up. Before reaching the summit we exited the gully and headed right towards the ridge line. After one short exposed move, we were on the final ridge of the mountain and made the final steps to the enormous summit cairn. What an experience! We were both pumped to make it to the summit. We took turns carefully climbing to the top of the summit cairn - which was sturdy enough to climb but its loose construction did not instill much confidence. We ate a snack, signed the register, and began the descent.
Once we made it back to our camp at Upper Snowy Lake we had to tear down and pack everything up. Unfortunately for the final peak of the trip, we would have to carry all of our gear as Mount Hardy is close but isn’t situated in a convenient location for our exit.
We made our way back down the Snowy Lakes Trail to the Pacific Crest Trail junction, made a right turn, and followed the PCT west towards Methow Pass. Here, we departed from the PCT once again and found the climber’s path that would direct us up towards Mount Hardy.
The climb up Hardy was arduous but never technical, lots of loose rock and talus to navigate but this climb was definitely the easiest of the three. We took an angled line heading towards the summit but realized a bit late that the best move is to get high on the ridge as soon as possible and to follow the cliffside as much as possible.
The summit of Mount Hardy was incredible and offered the perfect vantage point to sit back and admire the work and distances covered throughout the weekend. It was so satisfying to be on top of this magnificent mountain that I had admired and been in awe of for so many years. We spent more time than we probably should have just lounging on the rocky prow of the summit before beginning the descent. The view was just too good!
When we made it back down from Mount Hardy we found the tree we had stashed our overnight gear under to save weight and repacked our backpacks. Now that the climbing was done, we now had to hike the 11 miles south along the Pacific Crest Trail back to Rainy Pass where this adventure began.
This was one spectacular trip! Everything aligned for a truly perfect experience. Kayla and I had a long hike out to discuss the trip and we both shared the same sentiment for the three peaks we had just climbed: Golden Horn was the most thrilling/exciting, Tower Mountain was the most fun, and Mount Hardy had the best view - all three offered something new and unique for the climber. 10/10 possibly the best larch season peak bagging trip you can experience in Washington State.
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